Everest: A Tale of Two Faces

with Sanjay Saxena

Himalaya – the name says it all. Straddling the border between Tibet and its southerly neighbor, the Kingdom of Nepal, the world’s tallest mountains soar to the heavens, seemingly piercing the unimaginably blue Nepali-Tibetan skies. For the peoples of the Himalayan kingdoms, these mountains are sacred; for on their lofty heights dwell the gods and goddesses of the Indic religious traditions of Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism. In fact, the mountains themselves are considered manifestations of the deities.

Rising above them all is the “goddess” of all mountains, the colossal Everest.  Reaching a stupendous 29,017 feet, the world’s tallest mountain exerts a powerfully magnetic pull.  Known as “Peak XV” by the early Indo-British surveying team that established its summit as the world’s highest, the mountain was later named after Sir George Everest, head of the Great Trigonometrical Survey.  While this is the name by which most Westerners know the mountain, to Tibetans it is Chomolangma, “The Goddess Mother of the Universe,” while to the Nepalese it is Sagarmatha, “The Forehead of the Sky.” 

While Everest has long beckoned climbers, trekkers and adventurers, for most it meant choosing between the mountain’s Nepali south face and the Tibetan north face.   With our pioneering excursion, led by Sanjay Saxena, founder of Destination Himalaya, we will journey to both Tibet and Nepal to enjoy the monumental and strikingly unique views provided by glimpsing two sides of the world’s highest mountain.   We begin our journey in Tibet, exploring the sites in Lhasa, Gyantse and Shigatse before heading to Everest’s lesser-visited and less frequently climbed north face.  We then make the dramatic journey to the Tibetan-Nepalese border, dropping precipitously into the Himalayan foothills on our way to Kathmandu.  Taking the breathtaking mountain flight to Lukla, we then undertake the popular trek to bask in the glory of Everest’s majestic south face in the Khumbu, land of the Sherpa.

This is a singular opportunity to visit Everest’s radically different, yet equally exquisite, north and south faces in one extraordinary adventure.

Outline Itinerary

Day 1: Depart USA

Day 2: Arrive in Chengdu.  You will be met on arrival and transferred to the hotel.

Day 3: In the morning, our group will fly from Chengdu to Gongkar, home to Tibet’s international airport.  If the weather is clear, the flight from Chengdu to Tibet will offer magical panoramic mountain views, including the 24,783’ Minya Konka and the mighty Namche Barwa, 25, 439’.  Upon arrival at Gongkar, we will be met and transferred to our hotel in Lhasa, where we will have our group Welcome Dinner.  

Day 4: The next two days will be spent in and around Lhasa, the legendary Tibetan capital.  The goal of many intrepid travelers and explorers, the “forbidden city” of Lhasa will reveal its unique character and many mysteries as we visit many of its most significant historical and cultural sites.  Today’s itinerary includes visits to two of the area’s most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, Drepung and Nechung.  We will make a pilgrimage to the Jokhang, Tibet’s most sacred religious temple.  The roof of the Jokhang, with its wonderful golden gables and carvings, offers a magnificent view of the Potala.  The Barkhor, the maze-like warren of shops and stalls that surrounds the Jokhang, will beckon us to join the Tibetans who travel here to pay homage to the Jokhang as they circumambulate the sacred shrine.

Day 5: Looming over Lhasa and the Kyi-chu Valley is the monumental Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lamas.  A visit to this amazing historical site is certainly a highlight of any trip to Tibet, and today we will explore the many chapels, halls and tombs of the Red Palace.  In addition to the Potala, we will also visit Sera Monastery, located to the north of Lhasa, which is perhaps most famous for the renowned and always lively sessions which take place in the Debating Courtyard.

Day 6: We leave Lhasa, heading over high mountain passes and alongside the sacred lake Yamdrok-tso en route to Gyantse, nestled beneath the fortified walls of the Gyantse Dzong, stolidly sitting atop its lofty perch. 

Day 7: In the morning we visit the amazing Kumbum chorten before traveling across fertile green fields encircled by the dun-colored hills of Central Tibet, arriving in Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest city, and home to Tashilhunpo monastery, residence of the Panchen Lamas.

Day 8: Today’s main activity will be a hike in the environs of Ngor Monastery, in the hills outside of Shigatse.  The rest of the day will be free to explore the markets and bazaars in Shigatse.

Day 9: This is a travel day, as we leave the hustle and bustle of Shigatse and head out across the starkly beautiful Tibetan Plateau towards our destination, the town of Shegar.

Day 10: Our target for today is a truly one-of-a-kind destination: base camp at the north face of the mighty Everest, at 29,017’ the world’s tallest mountain peak.  As we adjust to the elevation of base camp (16,700’), we will have the opportunity to explore the photogenic Rongbuk Monastery, and will take a hike to aid in our acclimatization.

Day 11: Trekkers will appreciate today’s activities, as we embark on a hike in the vicinity of Everest North Face Base Camp.  The phenomenal beauty and immense size of Everest will overawe even the most jaded amongst us, as the summit extends upwards of 10,000’ from our position at Base Camp.  Needless to say, photo opportunities will abound.

Day 12: Leaving the majestic north face of Everest behind, we head to Nepal, to begin our approach to the mountain’s south face.  We begin the precipitous drop in elevation, 9,000’ in total, as we reach the frontier town of Zhangmu, elevation 7,500’.

Day 13: We rise in the morning, with porters and baggage in tow, as we clear customs and cross the Friendship Bridge where, in Nepal, it is over two hours earlier, due to Tibet being on “Beijing time.”  We then drive to legendary Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital city, where we will visit Durbar Square, Hanuman Dhoka and the bazaars of old Kathmandu.

Day 14: Taking the breathtaking mountain flight to the high-altitude airfield at Lukla, we meet up with our trekking staff and begin our weeklong trek in the Khumbu region to bask in the glory of Everest’s south face.  We will be camping for the duration of this trek.

Days 15-20: On trek.  Crossing the rushing waters of the Dudh Kosi (“Milk River”), we trek to Phakding, before making our way to the Sherpa capital at Namche Bazaar (11,300’).  While in Namche Bazaar, we will enjoy the hospitality of the Sherpa people, walks around the town and a visit to the Sagarmatha National Park Headquarters, which provides superb view of Everest and the surrounding peaks.  We then make our way to the monastery at Thyangboche, reaching the high point of our trek at the ridge line above Thyangboche (16,500’) offering great panoramic views of Everest’s south face and its satellite peaks.  We then make the return trek to Lukla.

Day 21: We say goodbye to our trekking staff, and prepare to make the return to Kathmandu.  Weather permitting the morning flight will get us back to the Nepali capital, where we will return to the cozy confines of our hotel.  The remainder of the day will be at your leisure to shop, wander the bazaars and enjoy exotic Kathmandu.

Day 22: Enjoying a final day in Kathmandu, we visit the Buddhist stupas at Swayambunath and Bodnath, as well as the Hindu temple at Pashupatinath.  Time permitting, we can also visit the ancient towns of Bhaktapur and Patan.  Tonight we will enjoy a splendid Farewell Dinner.

Day 23: Fly to Bangkok and overnight.

Day 24: Return to USA, arriving the same day.

Call us toll free at 1-800 MY INDIA (1-800-694-6342) or email us to request a detailed day-to-day itinerary.